Serifos Island: A Wild Beauty in the Cyclades That Still Feels Undiscovered

Serifos was the 9th island on my journey through the Cyclades, and if there’s one word that comes to mind when thinking about this place, it’s raw. Serifos feels like the Cycladic island that time kind of forgot—in the best way possible. It’s rugged, minimal, and beautifully barren. You won’t find luxury boutiques or five-star resorts here. What you will find are dramatic hillsides dotted with whitewashed houses, shockingly empty beaches, charming tavernas with grandmas still cooking in the back, and a kind of laid-back authenticity that so many other islands have traded away.

We spent 4 days in Serifos after a great time in Sifnos and Milos the previous days. I’m so glad we got to see this beautiful island as it renewed my absolute love and affection for the Cycladic islands.

Serifos Feels Like Amorgos and Folegandros—Not Sifnos

If I had to compare Serifos to any other islands in the Cyclades, it wouldn’t be Sifnos—even though they’re right next to each other and have names that sound like siblings. Serifos and Sifnos might as well be from different universes. Kind of like how Paros and Naxos are neighbors with completely different vibes, Serifos and Sifnos are that odd couple where one is raw and rugged, and the other is polished and poised

Serifos reminds me way more of Amorgos and Folegandros. The scenery here is wild, dramatic, and at times almost lunar. The cliffs are jagged, the hills are windswept, and the light just hits everything differently. It’s that kind of place where the landscape does most of the talking.

Driving around Serifos gave me the same feeling I had on those other two islands—that you’re somewhere that still feels untamed. That at any moment, you might stumble on a church built into the side of a cliff or a beach with no one on it for miles. That the silence is part of the experience.

While Sifnos is all about its charming villages, refined food scene, and lush green valleys, Serifos is more elemental. It’s rock and sea and wind and sky. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.

Getting to Serifos

Serifos, like most of the western Cycladic islands, doesn’t have an airport, and that’s probably why it’s still not swarmed with tourists. You’ll need to take a ferry from Athens’ port of Piraeus.

The Seajets fast ferry gets you there in about two hours, while the Blue Star takes closer to four. I personally don’t mind the longer ride—more time to sit on the deck, drink an overpriced cappuccino freddo, and soak in the Aegean breeze.

As I was visiting Sifnos for the third time, I decided it was finally time to make a visit to that neighboring island that had eluded me for so long. I had stopped at the port on numerous ferries in the past, always mesmerized by the Chora ascending into the mountains.

I decided, this was the moment where I would finally visit and booked my ferry from Sifnos to Serifos. It is only 30 minutes which meant it was a no brainer

For a comprehensive guided on Greek ferries and navigating your way around the Aegean, make sure to read my Greek ferry guide.

How to get around Serifos

Serifos, like pretty much every other island in the Cyclades is really meant for a DIY type of adventure. While there are cabs you can take, they are not cheap and not easy if you’re looking to explore multiple places. If you’re staying in the Chora and just want a cab ride to the nearest beach, then that will suffice but otherwise it’s best to have your own transportation.

In Serifos, the best way to get around is by scooter or ATV in my opinion. Cars are also an option but I always prefer a good scooter as it’s more interesting.

Rent an ATV or Scooter

Renting an ATV can be done pretty much anywhere on the island. There are countless shops in the Chora that have scooter/ATV rentals so there’s no need to book before hand. Prices are mostly set but there is always some negotiation room but do not expect to get huge discounts because the shops work with each other to form a minimum price.

ATVs can be rented for around €35-€75 depending on the motor size. Gas is not included in the price but they do not take much. Scooters can be had for around €20-30 for a 125cc engine depending on the time of year.

You will need an EU Drivers license or international drivers license to rent a scooter or ATV

Greece is famously strict about adhering to the drivers license rule. If you have an American drivers license, they will not rent you anything unless you have an international license to go along with it. I did not find anyone that would skirt these rules, even with the shadiest looking of places. Thankfully, living in Europe and having the right US drivers license, I was able to convert mine into a EU license quite easily. 

Chora: The Hilltop Capital That Feels Like a Movie Set

The Chora of Serifos is perched high on a hill, dramatically overlooking the Aegean, and it’s easily one of the most beautiful towns in the Cyclades. If Apollonia in Sifnos is elegant and well-kept, Chora in Serifos is wild and windswept.

You’ll drive (or scooter) up a zigzag road from the port of Livadi until you reach the base of Chora. From there, you’re on foot, climbing a maze of tight alleyways and whitewashed staircases that snake their way through the village. It’s a bit of a workout, but trust me—it’s worth it. Every twist and turn reveals another view, another crumbling church, another alleyway that leads to a café you want to sit in forever.

Come around sunset and head up to the old Kastro ruins at the very top of town. You’ll get 360-degree views over the island, with the sun dipping behind the hills and turning the white houses to gold.

The top of the Kastro is almost 300 meters above sea level. The views you get over the Aegean and Livadi town are out of this world beautiful. I took so many photos but like many of the places in the Cyclades, it simply doesn’t do it justice!

If you drive outside of the Chora towards the middle of the island, you’ll be greeted with the best views of the Chora as well as the ocean. I think what makes the Chora of Serifos stand out versus other Cycladic islands is its elevation but also its proximity to the ocean.

From the picturesque alleyways, you can always see the beautiful blue Aegean below you. Other Choras don’t have this steely combination.

Livadi: The Port Town That’s Actually… Great?

Unlike a lot of Greek islands where the port town feels like something to skip, Livadi is actually a solid base in Serifos. It has a nice long beach (Livadakia), tons of accommodation options, car/scooter rentals, and a surprisingly good selection of tavernas and beach bars.

The best part of the port might be the view of the Chora. From the beach, you can see the stunning road that zig zags up towards the Chora that is so perfectly scattered around its mountain-top perch. It’s a bit like the Chora of Folegandros or Astypalaia but more dramatic in my opinion.

Bonus: The beach here is actually swimmable, calm, and not overrun with tourists. That’s not always the case with port towns.

What to do in Serifos

Serifos is an absolutely stunning island that begs for you to explore it. While there isn’t as many iconic sights as in other Cycladic islands, that’s not an issue because the island itself stands out above the rest.

Drive around the island

I found that simply driving around the island on my scooter was the perfect way to soak in the island. As soon as you leave Livadi port town, you ascend up through the mountains and get a glimpse of Serifos’ natural beauty.

The main roads of Serifos hug the coast line so you’re able to really gain elevation while having constant Aegean views around you. As Serifos is not a very populated island (something like 1,000 people live on this island), the sparse mountainous landscape contrasted against the Aegean right in front of you really is something special.

Visit Taxiarchon Monastery

One of the main highlights in Serifos is probably the Taxiarchon Monastery located in the north of the island. The first thing that hits you as you approach the monastery is how fortified it looks. Unlike the more delicate and airy monasteries you might find elsewhere in the Cyclades, Taxiarchon looks like it was built to withstand something serious—and it was. Founded in the 16th century during the time of pirate raids, this place was constructed more like a mini fortress than a peaceful monastery.

As soon as you walk inside (make sure you’re covered around the shoulders and legs), it’s a completely different world. The courtyard is simple but beautiful—classic Cycladic arches, stone flooring, and vines climbing the whitewashed walls. It’s the kind of place where time feels like it slows down, and even if you’re not religious, you can’t help but feel a sense of reverence.

Panagia Skopiani

Five minutes away from the Taxiarchon monastery is the church of Skopiani. This is one of the, if not the most picturesque church I’ve visited in the Cyclades (and there are so many beautiful churches in the Cyclades).

It offers sweeping views of the Aegean and is placed so perfectly above the mountain. As you walk towards the monastery, you can’t help but feel like you’re above the clouds with a church in front of you. This church is often times used for celebrations and weddings.

Winery Chrysoloras

Wine is an important part of Greek culture and there just happens to be a winery in Serifos! I had no idea they could grow wine in such a dry, almost desert like environment like the Cyclades but I was wrong.

Serifos is famous for its Serifiotiko grape that is actually indigenous to the Cycladic islands. The grape has been cultivated in the Cyclades for generations and the wine that comes from it embodies the fragrant wines I’ve become so accustomed to.

The Winery Chrysoloras is the perfect place to see how it’s all done. Located right next to Taxiarchon monastery high up on the mountains, you can visit the winery as well as its beautiful vineyards. Every day during the high season, they have winery tours starting at 18h. This short tour gives a history about wine cultivation in Serifos and ends in a wine tasting overlooking the beautiful vineyards.

It’s also an amazing place to watch the sunset over the Aegean while you enjoy a delicious glass of wine.

Walk from Chora to Livadi

If you’re in the mood for an active day, consider hiking the stairs from the Chora to Livadi. This incredible hike takes 45 minutes and involves hundreds of stairs (maybe thousand or more?). While a car must take the winding roads from Livadi up to the Chora, you can hike this journey through the steps that cut through the winding roads.

The path is easily marked and you can’t get lost since there’s really only one footpath down to Livadi port town. Along the way, you’ll have breathtaking views of the Aegean the entire time.

Megalo Livadi: A Glimpse Into the Island’s Mining Past

If you’re looking for something a bit different, head west to Megalo Livadi. This old mining village has an eerie, almost haunting charm to it. You’ll drive past rusting industrial ruins, abandoned buildings, and cliffs with scars from a time when Serifos was a major iron ore producer.

There’s a beach here too—quiet, shallow, and lined with tamarisk trees. It’s a great place to relax after exploring the remnants of the mining facilities. You might be the only person there, which honestly makes it even better.

The Beaches: Wild, Empty, and Seriously Underrated

I’m generally not obsessed with the beaches in the Cyclades (and I certainly do not travel to the islands for beaches), Serifos is home to many beautiful and unspoiled beaches. They are often empty, even in the high season, and devoid of the typical sunbeds and loud music you might find on an island like Paros.

Here are my favorites:

Agios Sostis
Maybe the most beautiful beach on the island. Twin crescent bays with a tiny white chapel separating them. You’ll need to hike down a dirt path (or drive slowly if you have a 4×4), but once you arrive, it’s heaven. Bring your own supplies because there’s absolutely nothing there.

Ganema Beach
A large sweeping beach on the south side of the island. The water is calm, the scenery is dramatic, and there’s a laid-back taverna right on the sand serving fresh seafood and cold wine.

Psili Ammos
This beach actually won some awards a while back for being one of the best in Europe, and while I usually take those with a grain of salt, it really is stunning. Fine white sand, turquoise waters, and enough trees for natural shade. It’s the most organized of Serifos’ beaches but still feels quiet and authentic.

Where to Eat on Serifos

This is Greece, so the food is, of course, fantastic. Serifos leans traditional—no experimental gastronomy here, and that’s part of the charm. Most places are family-run, and you can usually see the yiayia in the kitchen yelling at everyone (in the most loving way).

Taverna Stou Stratou (Chora)
Iconic. Located in the main square of Chora under a huge tree with twinkling lights. Come here for wine, grilled meats, and classic mezes. Bonus points for the jazz soundtrack.

Thalami (Livadi)
Beachfront dining with a chill vibe and some of the best seafood I had on the island. Try the grilled octopus and the taramosalata.

Kalis Seafood (Livadakia)
A more modern take on seafood with creative dishes, a beautiful view of the bay, and genuinely lovely service. It’s pricier, but worth the splurge.

Taverna Simos (Psili Ammos)
Eat here after a day at the beach. No-frills but absolutely delicious. Order the fava, the goat, and a carafe of local wine. You’re welcome.

Bakeries in Serifos

Serifos has some of the best bakeries I can recall in my travels around the Cyclades. I love to start my day with a coffee and spanakopita (not sure this is the Greek way but I love it).

There is an amazing bakery in the Chora named Halida Bakery but my absolute favorite was in Livadi called Η Μπουγατσα του Μητσου.

Final Thoughts: Why Serifos Deserves Your Time

Serifos may not have the “wow” marketing appeal of Santorini or the polished charm of Sifnos, but that’s exactly why I loved it. It’s an island that hasn’t been tamed. It still feels like Greece for Greeks—not something made for Instagram.

Serifos doesn’t show off. But if you give it time, it reveals itself—slowly, quietly, beautifully.