Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina is one of the most complex and beautiful cities in the Balkans. I’ve been all over the Balkans (literally I have been to every country in the Balkans) and few places offer the combination of history, historical beauty, and modern significance that Sarajevo offers. Sarajevo also offers some of the best food and representation of traditional Balkan cuisine in the region.
I spent three full days in Sarajevo soaking in the culture, history, and food after an equally amazing trip to the southern capital of Mostar. I will talk about the food in great detail later but I can safely say that the best Balkan food you can find is in Sarajevo and Bosnia in general. You will not find better cevapi or burek than you will find in Sarajevo.
Just to prove I’m not lying, make sure to read my other posts about the countries in the Balkans!
- Two week Balkans itinerary: Serbia, Croatia and Montenegro
- Montenegro Coast Road Trip
- Slovenia
- Albania and Kosovo
- N. Macedonia
- Bulgaria
- North Greece
What is Balkan Cuisine?
Balkan cuisine is a vibrant and diverse culinary tradition that reflects the complex history and cultural influences of Southeast Europe. Spanning countries such as Serbia, Bosnia, Croatia, Albania, Greece, Bulgaria, and others, the region’s food offers a delightful fusion of Mediterranean, Ottoman, Slavic, and Austro-Hungarian flavors. What ties these countries together, despite their political differences, is the shared emphasis on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, hearty meals, and time-honored recipes that have been passed down through generations.
One of the defining features of Balkan cuisine is its use of meats, particularly grilled and roasted, which take center stage in dishes like cevapi (grilled minced meat rolls) and pljeskavica (a type of Balkan burger). Salads are also on the menu but it is a bit of an after thought in Balkan cuisine, especially in Bosnia. I found food in Bulgaria to be more vegetable friendly with their delicious shopska salads but didn’t find the same quality in Bosnia. Forget about a balanced diet and simply indulge in the meat eating feast that awaits you.
Bread plays a central role in the Balkan dining experience, with varieties like pita, pogacha, and lepinja frequently accompanying meals. Dairy products, such as yogurt, kajmak (a clotted cream), and various cheeses, add creamy textures to the region’s fare. Balkan desserts, like the flaky, syrup-soaked baklava and tulumba, highlight the lasting influence of the Ottoman Empire on regional sweets. With its mix of bold flavors, hearty ingredients, and a blend of Eastern and Western culinary traditions, Balkan cuisine remains a rich and flavorful journey for any food lover.
Best Cevapi in Sarajevo
Cevapi, or Cevapcici, is the most popular food of the Balkans. It is at the heart of every Balkan person to eat and love cevapi. I’m not Balkan but I can safely say I’ve eaten my way through all the different cevapi variations in each country. Every country has their version but none compare to the cevapi in Bosnia, and particularly Sarajevo.
This delicious meal of ground beef served in a delicious lepinja bread with onion and kajmak is one of the must try dishes in Sarajevo.
There are countless cevapi restaurants in Sarajevo and every resident has their favorite. Ask one person and you’ll get a completely different answer than someone else. These are fighting words after all.
Cevabdzinica Zelja
I sampled numerous cevapi restaurants in Sarajevo and the best cevapi I had was at Cevabdzinica Zeljo. The secret to an amazing cevapi is delicious meat that has the flavor of the charcoal grill, bread that is soft but crispy, and kajmak that is rich but not super buttery.
I ate at Zeljo multiple times during my stay and it hit the spot each time. There are also loads of people that come here so be prepared to wait during peak hours but it is well worth it.
Cevabdzinica Fertahovic
Zeljo had the best of all of these and it was overall my favorite. The other also very respectable options are Fertahovic. This restaurant had an equal amount of patrons dining in as Zeljo. I suspect locals in Sarajevo have their favorite shop and they stick to it which I can respect.
I found Fertahovic’s cevapcici to be just as delicious with a similar spice blend and flavor. I like my cevapi to be a bit more charred and crispy on the outside and I found Zeljo to be more in line with that. Of course, I only had Fertahovic once so it could be different on another day.
Cevabdzinica Kastel
There are many different types of Cevapi in the Balkans. I am a bit of a cevapcici connoisisseur myself and I don’t discriminate with all the different styles. One of the other styles of cevapi I tried in Sarajevo is the Banjaluki cevapcici from Banja Luka, another city in Bosnia. Banja Luka is considered Republica Srpska (the Serbian part of Bosnia) and they have their own style of the famous dish. I won’t get into the differences between Serbia, Bosnia, and Croatia in this post (that can be an entire blog on its own) but all I can say is that Banja Luka style cevapcici is delicious.
Cevapdznica Kastel is one of the best places to try the Banja Luka style in the old town of Sarajevo. The meat pieces, instead of shaped in a cylindrical format are flat squares. The spice blend is also slightly different giving it a juicier flavor. It also comes with a spicy pepper which I absolutely love as it is the perfect thing to cut through the grease and richness. While I still prefer the Sarajevo style overall, the Banja Luka style is definitely worth a try.
Nune, and Cevabdzinica Specjial. You won’t go wrong at any of these places! Just keep in mind that a good cevapi shop does not serve alcohol because they don’t need the extra income. The menus are quite basic and you’re here just for a few simple things. If you find a restaurant serving cevapi with beer, avoid it as they are not making their own fresh cevapi.
Best Burek in Sarajevo
Burek is a way of life in the Balkans. This delicious pastry stuffed with meat, cheese, potatoes, or spinach is one of the most famous dishes you can have in the region. I’ve had Burek everywhere and I can safely say that Sarajevo has the best burek in the world. It’s even better than the burek I had in Istanbul or the ones I had in Kosovo.
The Bosnian style of Burek is unique in that it is cooked in a sac; which is a traditional round pan that is covered with piles of charcoal. Bosnian burek is also famous in that the outer crust of the burek is remarkably soft yet crunch, and is filled with toppings without falling apart.
A visit to Sarajevo without a visit to one of the many buregdzinicas is not a complete trip. Burek is a popular breakfast dish but is eaten all throughout the day. It is traditionally served with kajmak, the Bosnian version of sour cream.
The best burek in Sarajevo are at Buregdzinica Bosna and Buregdzinica Sac. These restaurants have multiple sac running with different types of the pastry. Traditional “burek” in Bosnia is only with beef and onions. Variations with cheese or potatoes are called “pita”. In other parts of the Balkans, burek can be used for all variations. Nevertheless, all types are delicious but my preference is of course with beef!
I visited these burek restaurants almost every morning because it just felt like the right way to start off the day with such a hearty and delicious local meal. I suspect local Sarajevo residents don’t eat burek every day otherwise you would gain weight quickly.
Prices for burek are quoted by the kilo. I could easily eat a half kilo but found that 300-400g was a respectable amount that would fill me up for breakfast but wouldn’t send me straight back to the bed.
So delicious and so addicting.
Other restaurants and bars to visit in Sarajevo
Have a drink at S One Sky Lounge
For the best views of Sarajevo with a drink, make sure to visit the S One Sky Lounge. This trendy lounge offers beautiful views of the old town and is perfect for a quick drink before dinner on a sunny day. Drinks here are expensive in comparison to other bars but it’s expected as you’re also paying for the view!
Four rooms of Mrs Safija
While this list is mostly about Bosnia’s most famous foods like grilled meats and burek, there are plenty of high end restaurants serving more contemporary Balkan cuisines. One of my favorites in Sarajevo is the four rooms of Mrs. Safija.
Drink Bosnian Coffee and Eat Baklava
Bosnian coffee is a must try when visiting Sarajevo. It’s essentially the same thing as Turkish coffee but people drink it here like there’s no tomorrow. You’ll see locals hanging out at the countless cafes in the old town sipping on their coffees for hours. The best place to try this is at Cafe Divan located inside the Caravan Saray – Morica Han. This traditional style cafe was once a caravan house that housed travelers and traders from all over the world.
Nowadays, Cafe Divan is a traditional coffee house that serves tourists and locals alike. The wooden interior and abundance of trees inside the courtyard makes everything feel a few degrees warmer than on the main street.
Eat delicious Balkava at Cafe Jasmin
I’m not a big sweets person but I absolutely love Baklava. This Turkish desert is famous all over the Middle East. Since the Balkans were a part of the Ottoman empire, these countries also have a storied history of producing and consuming Baklava. While traditional Turkish baklava is made with Pistachio, Bosnian baklava is made with walnuts were are most abundantly available in the country.
You’ll find baklava literally on ever street corner but for the best, make sure to visit Cafe Jasmin or Baklava Ducan in the old city. Expect to pay 2-3 KM per piece and I would only recommend to eat 1 piece at a time as they are super rich.
