There are few places in the world that capture the imagination quite like French Polynesia. The moment you arrive, the warm island breeze, the scent of tropical flowers, and the endless shades of blue stretching across the horizon make it clear—you’ve stepped into paradise. With its postcard-perfect beaches, vibrant coral reefs, and a relaxed rhythm of life, this is a place that invites you to slow down, sink your feet into the sand, and embrace the magic of island living.
For me, the perfect itinerary here blends adventure with tranquility, taking in some of the most breathtaking destinations this region has to offer. From the lush peaks and golden beaches of Moorea to the vast, shimmering lagoon of Rangiroa and the untouched beauty of Fakarava, each island has its own unique charm. Whether it’s diving alongside graceful manta rays, drifting through a pass teeming with sharks, or simply watching the sunset paint the sky in fiery hues, every moment feels like something out of a dream.
This journey isn’t just about seeing French Polynesia—it’s about experiencing it. It’s about gliding through warm waters, sharing smiles with locals, savoring the freshest seafood, and letting the rhythm of the islands wash over you. If you’re looking for the perfect mix of relaxation, adventure, and some of the best diving in the world, this itinerary will take you there.
How to get around French Polynesia
French Polynesia consists of over a hundred islands that are very spread out from each other. To get around the islands, there is really only one way and that is by airplane. The islands around Tahiti like Moorea, Huahine, and Raiatea can be reached by ferry but aside from that, everything else is by airplane.
There are two main airlines in French Polynesia: Air Tahiti and Air Moana. Flights mostly originate from Tahiti, the capital island of French Polynesia so it’s 100% guaranteed you will need to fly out of Tahiti for your domestic and international flights.
Flights are not cheap and you should expect to pay something like €100-€150 for a one way flight from Tahiti to the islands in the Tuamoto like Rangiroa and Fakarava. I did not fly Air Moana while I was in French Polynesia as it was a new airline but I heard that they are looking to disrupt the monopoly that Air Tahiti has by offering cheaper flights to the most popular islands. Yay for competition!
Island Hopper Pass
Air Tahiti offers island hopping passes which let’s you save a little bit on the cost of your flights. As an example, you can book an island hopping pass for the Tuomoto Islands that allow you to fly to Tikehau, Rangiroa, and Fakarava as part of one ticket.
The cost of this during the high season is €482 as of 2025. If you were to book this individually (Tahiti to Tikehau, Tikehau to Rangiroa, Rangiroa to Fakarava, Fakarava to Tahiti), you would pay more for the 4 flights.
As I did not visit Tikehau, it was still cheaper to just book the three flights from Tahiti to Rangiroa to Fakarava to Tahiti but I wish I had spent some time on Tikehau instead.
Getting around on the islands
Once you’re on the islands, the main forms of transport are car and scooter. On the really small and remote islands like Fakarava, bicycles are also commonly used. The islands in French Polynesia are deceptively larger than you think. Moorea is around 70 minutes driving around the entire island while Rangiroa is about 12 km from one end to the other. Walking is definitely doable but you won’t get far on many of these islands as it is super spread out without much cover meaning you will fry under the hot Polynesian sun.
Scooters are criminally expensive in French Polynesia. As an example, renting a scooter on Fakarava is almost €50 a day. For this price, you get a beat up 125cc that costs no more than €1,000 to purchase. This means these people are making up the cost of the bike within a month which is insane. Cars are equally as expensive and will cost €70-100 for the most basic manual car.
Where I went in French Polynesia?
French Polynesia is a huge country as far as area that the country encompasses. There are 121 islands scattered across 2,000 km of ocean. The furthest points of the country is the same as going from London to Turkey. It’s insanely spread out!
With that said, there are countless islands for you to visit which makes it difficult to decide which ones to see with limited time.
I had three weeks in French Polynesia which seems like a long time but in reality it goes by super fast! I wanted to focus my time visiting the most beautiful paradise-esque beaches I could find as well as scuba dive as French Polynesia has some of the best diving in the world.
I ended up settling on the following islands to visit as I was primarily focused on scuba diving.
- Moorea
- Rangiroa
- Fakarava
I did not visit the honeymoon islands of Bora Bora or nearby islands to Tahiti like Huahine or Raiatea. I spent a total of 19 days in French Polynesia (1 week in Rangiroa, 1 week in Fakarava, 4 days in Fakarava, and 2 days ibn Tahiti just for transfer reasons).
I focused most of my time in the Tuamoto islands (Rangiroa and Fakarava) to maximize my diving. However, I really did not like Rangiroa as I thought the diving was average at best. There also was nowhere to eat a good meal so we ended up eating baguettes with canned tuna for the majority of the stay. I wish I had spent just 3 or 4 days in Rangiroa, and the rest of the time in Tikehau as it is so well connected with Rangiroa.
How long to spend in French Polynesia
French Polynesia is the utlimate paradise for those looking for that idyllic beach getaway. It consists of over a hundred different islands all with something to offer. I could spend months traveling French Polynesia and I wouldn’t get bored.
It really depends on what you’re into. I am a big beach guy and even bigger diving aficionado so French Polynesia is obviously the hot spot for me. If these aren’t things you’re into, then you’ll quickly be bored from what the country has to offer.
However, if you have limited time and want to just cover off the basics of French Polynesia, I would still recommend you spend at least 1-2 weeks in the country to see how diverse it is.
If you only come to French Polynesia to spend a few nights at a high end resort in Bora Bora, that is still great but you won’t really get a feel of how the island life is as you see a very particular manicured version.
I spent almost three weeks in French Polynesia and wish I could have spent 3 months. I really want to visit more of the Tuamoto islands, as well as visiting the Marquesas which are totally different than the rest of the country. I would have loved to also visit the islands near to Tahiti like Huahine and Raiatea.
Day 1: Landing in Tahiti
Every trip starts in Tahiti whether you want to see it or not. For whatever reason, everyone told me to skip Tahiti since it is the biggest and most commercial island in the country. However, the landscape looks absolutely stunning in Tahiti so I feel like a day or two in the island wouldn’t be bad.
Nevertheless, I did not spend time in Tahiti as I really wanted to rush off to get some scuba diving done! With that said, many of the flights into French Polynesia arrive in the afternoon and any connecting flights or ferries have all closed up for the day.
As an example, the last ferry to Moorea leaves around 17:30 from the port (20 minutes from the airport). Therefore, if your flight arrives anything before 16:30, you’re pushing it to make it on time. As well, the flights to the Tuamoto islands like Tikehau, Rangiroa, and Fakarava depart in the morning so you can’t connect.
Therefore, I had to spend a night in Tahiti just so I could connect to my local flight the following day. I spent the night at Manueva Lodge. This guesthouse was perfectly located just 5 minutes from the airport and came with free airport pickup. Although this guesthouse was close to nothing, they drove us to nearby restaurants for free which was perfect.
Day 2-9: Rangiroa
Rangiroa, one of the largest atolls in the world, is a place where nature takes center stage. This breathtaking destination in French Polynesia offers an escape into a world of crystalline waters, thriving marine life, and a laid-back island atmosphere that invites visitors to slow down and soak in the beauty.
Dive into the Underwater Wonderland
A trip to Rangiroa isn’t complete without experiencing its legendary underwater world. Known as one of the best diving spots on the planet, the Tiputa Pass is where thrill-seekers gather to witness an exhilarating drift dive. Sharks, manta rays, dolphins, and schools of vibrant fish glide through the strong currents, offering an unforgettable display of marine life. Snorkelers can also revel in the shallow lagoon, where coral gardens host an array of tropical fish, making it easy to enjoy the wonders beneath the surface without venturing too deep.
Discover the Beauty of the Lagoons
For those looking to embrace Rangiroa’s natural beauty from above the water, a boat excursion to the Blue Lagoon is a must. This secluded paradise, a lagoon within the lagoon, is an ethereal setting with pristine turquoise waters and tiny motus (islets) dotted along the horizon. The journey itself is an adventure, with stops to feed reef sharks and admire the untouched landscapes. Another incredible spot is Lagon Vert, or Green Lagoon, where a serene, emerald-hued body of water contrasts against the striking blues of the ocean, creating a picture-perfect scene.
Experience the Magic of Tahitian Pearls
Beyond its waters, Rangiroa offers cultural and sensory delights. A visit to Gauguin’s Pearl Farm provides insight into the art of cultivating Tahitian black pearls, one of the region’s most prized treasures. The experience is both educational and mesmerizing, as the delicate process of harvesting and grading these luminous gems is revealed.
Taste the Island’s Unique Wine
A unique aspect of Rangiroa is its small yet charming winemaking tradition. Vin de Tahiti, the local vineyard, is a rare sight in the tropics, where grapevines thrive in the coral soil. Tasting the island’s wine, produced from grapes grown just steps from the lagoon, is an experience unlike any other, blending the flavors of the sea with the richness of the land.
Embrace the Relaxed Island Lifestyle
The island’s atmosphere encourages a slow, mindful way of traveling. Days are best spent cycling along quiet roads, stopping at local eateries for fresh seafood, or simply relaxing in a hammock while the gentle trade winds sway the palms. The sunsets in Rangiroa paint the sky in fiery hues, best enjoyed with a drink in hand, listening to the rhythmic sound of the waves.
Day 9-16: Fakarava and the Wall of Sharks
From Rangiroa, the afternoon flight to Fakarava leaves almost daily. The 1 hour flight is one of the most picturesque flights I’ve seen as the atolls in French Polynesia are just completely out of this world.
The Fakarava Atoll was in particular stunning with the most vibrant turquoise colors I’ve seen. For everything I disliked about Rangiroa, Fakarava had the opposite effect.
Fakarava is a much prettier island than Rangiroa in my opinion. The roads are much nicer and the beaches are incredible. The island itself just has more of that remote Polynesian island vibe that was somehow missing a bit in Rangiroa. The diving, which was the main reason we were here, is also considerably better.
Fakarava is world famous for the scuba divers in the know for being the ultimate mecca of sharks. If you love diving with sharks and want to see a lot of them, you’ve come to the right place as there is 100% chance to see hundreds of sharks in Fakarava.
The channels in the north and the south of the Fakarava Atoll have the perfect blend of current and consistency that attracts hundreds of gray reef sharks to its doorstep.
Unfortunately, I did not bring my professional camera set up to take nice photos since I was traveling for such a long time and this heavy setup was not practical. However, I did take many amazing videos on my GoPro for you to look at!
Dive shops in Fakarava
There are four dive shops on Fakarava:
- O2
- TopDive
- Dive Spirit
- Kaina Plongee
After doing extensive research and review reading, I settled on O2. I was very impressed and satisfied with my diving in O2. The shop was professionally run with good equipment, free Nitrox with 15L tanks, good guides, and comfortable boats.
In addition, O2 is located on perhaps one of the nicest beaches of any dive shop I’ve seen. There is also a food truck serving delicious paninis and tuna tartare overlooking this stunning beach. I would routinely hang out at O2 after my dives were finished because of the vibes.
Diving North Pass of Fakarava
Fakarava diving is pretty straight forward; there is the north pass which is close to the town and dive shops, and the south pass which is famous wall of sharks. You can dive one or the other and that’s it.
The north pass is woefully underrated since the south pass gets all the attention globally. From the O2 dive shop, it is a 20 minute speedboat ride to the north of Fakarava where there is a channel with insane amounts of sharks.
As soon as you descend from the boat, you’re engulfed in a tornado of yellow snappers and gray reef sharks. Depending on the tides, the current can be ripping here which means more action from all the fish. Compared to the south pass which usually has a milder and more consistent current making for a more relaxed dive, the north pass can be crazy but in the best of ways.
I saw so many sharks at the north pass along with crazy schools of fish. The coral gardens in the south pass are much nicer than the north pass but
Diving the South Pass of Fakarava
The South Pass is located at the very southern end of Fakarava Atoll about 50km from the airport. It’s home to the ultra famous Wall of Sharks which is exactly what it sounds like. It’s a channel dive that is home to hundreds of gray sharks. Literally, every dive you’ll see many hundreds of sharks swimming about.
These sharks are not large like the bull sharks in Fiji but the big ones still get to almost 2m in lengths! This is one of the most insane dive sites in the entire world.
From Fakarava, the dive shops will do the long journey to the south pass usually once or twice a week. The boat ride is 1h-1.5h depending on the waves and you’ll have an absolutely stunning surface interval at the pink sand beach near to Tetamanu village. I’m talking the most quintessential French Polynesia private island stop with a picnic lunch provided.
The surface interval alone is worth the trip in my mind!
As with all channel dives, the incoming current will bring in the best visibility which the shops usually try to time accordingly. Visibility during this time is a stunning 30m+ which will allow you to see all the sharks in their glory.
Unlike the insane currents of the North Pass, the south pass is a calm consistent current allowing you to relax and enjoy the show. It’s a dive that’s difficult to explain with words. I’ve seen the videos so many times but when you’re there in person, you are left speechless. It really is a sea of gray sharks swimming ever so gracefully in front of you. You’ll also find the odd lemon shark, silvertip shark, and nurse sharks as well.
Just like the north pass, I blew through my air on the first dive trying to take as many videos and photos as possible.
As you drift pass the wall of sharks, you’ll come through a coral garden right in front of Tetamanu village which is home to beautiful corals, schooling fish, and various other reef fish.
Finally, Fakarava is home to the most Napoleon Wrasse I’ve ever seen. In the past, I would see one or two Napoleon’s on a dive in other parts of the world and would be super excited since they are one of my favorite fish. In Fakarava’s south pass, I saw probably a hundred of them swimming around. The coral garden out on the ocean side was a literal aquarium of every fish you could think of surrounded by stunning corals. Unfortunately, I didn’t have my professional camera to take nice photos.
Day 16-20: Moorea Island
From Fakarava, it was time to visit the next island in Moorea! I had to fly through Tahiti and stay a night there is only one flight in the afternoon that arrives too late for the last Tahiti to Moorea Ferry.
I stayed right near the port at the famous Kon Tiki Tahiti hotel which has a beautiful rooftop bar with stunning sunset views overlooking Moorea.
The following morning, we took the first ferry from Tahiti to Moorea.
Moorea is filled with things to occupy your time. I only spent 4 nights in Moorea so by no means is this the full list.
Drive around the island
For starters, driving around the island is a great way to get a lay of the land and to see Moorea’s true natural beauty. The drive is about 70 minutes along the main road. It is an absolute stunning drive with all of Moorea’s peaks on full display.
Depending on the direction you drive, you’ll have different views (both are equally as stunning). I particularly loved the drive from the port to the Hilton. I think the area around the various bays are absolutely stunning given how dramatic Moorea’s mountains are. Sometimes it feels like a giant wall is in front of you while you’re driving.
Swim with Humpback Whales, Sharks, & Stingrays
One of the most exhilarating activities on the island is swimming with humpback whales, an experience that is both humbling and unforgettable. Tours operate from August to November, allowing visitors to witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. In addition to whales, travelers can also snorkel with blacktip reef sharks and friendly stingrays at the Shark & Ray Sandbar, an experience that is thrilling yet completely safe.
Hiking Adventures with Breathtaking Views
For those who prefer to explore on land, Moorea offers breathtaking hiking trails that lead to panoramic viewpoints. The hike to Magic Mountain is a short yet rewarding trek that provides one of the best views of the island’s coastline. Another popular trail, the Three Coconuts Pass, takes hikers through lush forests and past dramatic volcanic peaks.
Explore the Island on an ATV or 4WD Tour
Exploring the island by ATV or 4WD jeep is another fantastic way to experience Moorea’s rugged terrain. Many tours take visitors through the island’s famous pineapple plantations, offering insights into Moorea’s agricultural heritage. Stops at scenic viewpoints like Belvedere Lookout provide stunning photo opportunities of the island’s twin bays.
Experience Polynesian Culture & Cuisine
Moorea’s rich Polynesian culture can be experienced at Tiki Village, where guests can watch traditional dance performances, learn about local craftsmanship, and enjoy an authentic Tahitian feast.
Belvedere Lookout
Belvedere lookout is one of the best viewpoints you can have in Moorea. Located just in front of Mount Tohivea, an extinct volcano that is also the highest point on Moorea (1,200m), the views are absolutely incredible as you can see the ocean behind you.
You can get to Belvedere lookout by car via the paved mountain road. Avoid the Rue D’Ananas as that road is unpaved and only meant for off road vehicles.
Visit Coco Beach Island
To the northwest of Moorea is a small motu (island) that is home to a beautiful beach and restaurant. You can take a boat from Moorea and visit this island for lunch while enjoying its stunning beach. Unfortunately, they were closed during the low season when I visited in early February.
FAQs for traveling to French Polynesia
Are beaches in French Polynesia public?
Yes.
By law, all beaches in French Polynesia are public. However, that doesn’t always work in practice. On the more popular islands of Moorea or Bora Bora, many of the beaches are hard to reach unless you go through private property. While in theory, that beach is public, reaching it means going through private property which essentially makes the beach private. This is the case for many of the beaches that belong to the big resorts.
Nevertheless, there are plenty of beaches to go around in French Polynesia so this probably shouldn’t be a problem.
In fact, a lot of the beaches in front of the fancy resorts will be the most pristine because they were regularly cleaned meaning less debris and rocks.
How expensive is traveling around French Polynesia
Like most of the rest of the South Pacific, traveling in French Polynesia is not cheap. I would compare the costs to that of traveling in Fiji where I went 1y prior. It is more expensive than traveling through the Cook Islands. Almost everything is imported which surely drives up the costs.
French Polynesia is part of France and uses the XPF (French Polynesian Franc) which is pegged to the Euro at 119 to €1. Prices vary wildly based on which island you’re on but generally you’re looking at something like €15-25 for a main at a restaurant. You can find cheaper food at local snacks however.
I ate mostly seafood as Tuna is the cheapest thing to eat in French Polynesia. In fact, the price of tuna is regulated by the Government since it is such a huge staple of the local diet. I could get Poisson Cru at the local magasin (grocery store) for about €8 for a sizeable portion.
Accommodations are generally expensive throughout the islands. On smaller islands like Fakarava, you can expect to pay €100 per night for a basic place with prices going much higher depending on what you’re looking for. On a larger island like Moorea, you can expect to easily pay €200 a night for a decent place. In Bora Bora, expect to pay north of €1,000 a night for a luxury hotel.
The worst part of French Polynesia is definitely the cost of transportation. It is prohibitively expensive to rent cars and even more so with scooters. Cars will generally cost €60-80 a day for a basic manual car. Scooters are roughly €50 per day which is absolutely criminal. 125cc scooters cost nothing even in a heavily import heavy region like French Polynesia. In fact, the cost of scooters in the Cook Islands was 1/3!
What currency is used in French Polyensia?
French Polynesia uses the French Polynesian Franc (XPF). It is pegged to the Euro at a rate of 119.25 to €1. This rate is pegged so technically you should be getting this rate. It is illegal to be charged a worse rate than this. However, I still recommend taking out Francs to facilitate easier transactions since you won’t have the exact amount of Euro change.
Many places accept US Dollars given the amount of US tourists that visit. However, there is no law prohibiting them from giving you a terrible exchange rate and that’s exactly what will be done. You can expect to pay at least a 5-10% surcharge when using US Dollars in the way of a worse exchange rate than market rates.
What is the best time to visit French Polynesia?
French Polynesia enjoys a pleasant climate year round with two distinct seasons, the rainy season and the dry season. As the country is extremely spread out with different micro climates, one season does not fit all. For example, the Marquesas Islands are much greener and receive more rainfall than the islands in the Tuamoto for example.
Nevertheless, the dry season runs from April to November with the rainy season from November to March. During the dry seasons, expect temperatures to hover comfortably around 27-30c with less humidity and rain. This time is generally more expensive as French tourists come for their summer holidays.
The rainy season is generally much warmer with periodic rain storms throughout the day. Generally, prices are lower and it is less busy.
I visited in January which is the heart of the rainy season and found absolute paradise in the various islands I visited. While Moorea and Tahiti had a few overcast days, the islands in the Tuamoto like Rangiroa and Fakarava were nothing but sunshine. The Tuamoto islands have the most sun out of any part of the country.
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