Nestled in the heart of the South Pacific, the Cook Islands are a tropical paradise where crystal-clear lagoons, lush landscapes, and vibrant Polynesian culture come together to create an unforgettable escape. Whether you’re seeking serene beaches, thrilling adventures, or a glimpse into the island way of life, this archipelago offers something for every traveler.
I spent 10 days visiting the Cook Island’s two biggest attractions in Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Both islands have something different to offer but are all ridiculous stunning.
How to get around Cook Islands
You’ll want a car or scooter while you’re in the Cook Islands if you intend on venturing out of your hotel and exploring other parts of the island.
On Rarotonga, it takes 50 minutes to drive around the entire island as there is the main road that runs around the edge of the island. There is a bus in Rarotonga with two lines, one that goes clockwise and another that goes counter-clockwise. They run every hour and costs $5 NZD per ride.
If you’re planning to mostly stay at your hotel, then you probably don’t need to rent a car. However, if you want to see other beaches or visit other restaurants on the island, a car is necessary.
Aitutaki is a much smaller island but it is still big enough where you can’t walk from place to place. For example, if you’re staying on the western coast of Aitutaki and want to go to Oota Beach by the lagoon, you’re looking at a 1-2 hour walk which will not be fun in the crazy sun. There are no public buses in Aitutaki.
Car rentals on both islands start at around $50-100 NZD a day. Scooter rentals are much cheaper at $25-$30 NZD or so. I always go for scooters as I love having the wind in my face while being able to soak in all the views.
I think renting transport in Aitutaki is more important especially if you’re not staying on the lagoon side. You’ll want to come to the lagoon area a lot.
Where I went in the Cook Islands?
My itinerary of the Cook Islands includes its two largest and most well known islands, Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Rarotonga is the capital and where all your international flights will land from.
I spent 4 nights in Rarotonga which was enough to get a flavor of this beautiful island nation’s capital. The beaches in Rarotonga are fabulous and there’s plenty of nice hotels to stay.
From Rarotonga, we took the 45 minute flight on Air Rarotonga to Aitutaki which is what I was really excited about. Aitutaki is famous for its stunning blue lagoon and perhaps the best beach in the world. I spent 5 nights in Aitutaki with one of the days being a lagoon tour. I also planned to do some kitesurfing but the weather conditions were not right unfortunately.
How long to spend in the cook islands?
The Cook Islands is a truly beautiful place. If you’re a beach person, you will be in literal paradise in the Cooks. As I am a beach person myself, I could easily spend weeks in the Cook islands, especially in Aitutaki.
I spent a total of 9 nights in the Cooks with 4 in Rarotonga and 5 in Aitutaki.
I would spend more time in Aitutaki as I find the lagoon to just be one of the most beautiful places on Earth. The food options in Aitutaki is also surprisingly good. If you only have time for one island, make it Aitutaki and stay for at least 4-5 nights in my opinion.
Day 1-4: Rarotonga
Rarotonga is the largest and the capital of the 15 islands that make up the Cook Islands. Normally, I would skip the main islands of these pacific nations as I find the smaller islands to be more beautiful. Fiji is a good example with its mainland being good but not great.
Rarotonga however is an exception as I think it is definitely worth a visit if you have the time. The beaches in Rarotonga are very pretty and there’s plenty to do. It’s not a big island and the two towns in Rarotonga are not overwhelming. The speed limit on the entire island is 50 km/h after all!
Where to stay in Rarotonga?
Even though Rarotonga is a relatively small island, where you stay makes a big difference because you just want to be somewhere conveniently located to the best that the island has to offer.
For starters, all the nice beaches and the area you want to stay are in the southern half of the island. Do not bother with anything in the northern half. This is where the two main towns are as well as the airport. It’s also open seas so there are no beaches. The bottom half of Rarotonga is home to the breathtaking lagoon.
The most beautiful part of the island is probably at Muri Beach. This little lagoon is on the eastern side of the island about half way up. It’s also the area with the most hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, cafes, and the likes. Don’t go expecting top quality restaurants and cafes like you’ll find in Bali. It is the Pacific Islands after all.
I stayed at Lagoon Breeze on the western half of the island because I wanted to see the sunset. However, the weather was mostly terrible during my stay so I couldn’t see the sunset anyway. If I could go back, I would definitely stay closer to the Muri Beach area.
My favorite beaches on Rarotonga
There are many different beaches in Rarotonga and they are all on one strip on the southern half of the island. While Muri Beach is the most popular and probably the most beautiful by pictures alone, I found a few other beaches that were equally as beautiful but with less people.
By no means are the beaches in Rarotonga that busy to begin with but sometimes I just like to do my own thing. Here are my favorite beaches in Rarotonga:
- Muri Beach
- Titikaveta Beach (right in front of Little Polynesian Resort)
- Aroa Beach
- The beach in f ront of the Takitumu conservation area
Visit the night market in Rarotonga
The night market in Rarotonga is the place to be. Located near Muri Beach, this night market has a few vendors selling delicious local foods from grilled meats to fish curry.
I absolutely loved the stand cooking up prawn curries. For $24 NZD, I had a huge Polynesian sized bowl of tiger prawns in curry that was so delicious. Even better, they have chili plants growing on the street where you can pluck you own birds eye chilies for some real flavor.
It is open from 5pm on Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday.
Charlies
Charlies is an institution in Rarotonga. Located right in front of the beach with mesmerizing colors, this is the place to be for delicious food. Make sure to try their famous fish sandwich on a homemade ciabatta bread. The thing was the size of my head (and I have a huge head). For $20, it is a steal.
LBV for brunch
The best cafe on Rarotonga has to be LBV which is also near Muri Beach. This cafe has great coffee and even better food. The chef really knows what he’s doing.
Make sure to get the Tuna rosti which is their rendition of the popular Swiss hashbrowns but using local cassava and other root vegetables. It’s also paired with the local spinach, grilled tuna, and eggs. I ate this almost every morning!
Shipwreck Restaurant
Shipwreck is another institution on Rarotonga that hosts fire dancing on certain nights. Located on the west coast of the island, this restaurant is also home to a beautiful beach with stunning views. I came here a few times for lunch or dinner because their fish curry was out of this world.
Avaroa Passage snorkeling
Rarotonga is home to one of the best snorkeling spots in the country at the Avaroa passage. This area is home to many turtles and a resident school of eagle rays.
There are many tour operators that do this snorkel tour. You’ll be on a boat for a few minutes as you reach the site near where the lagoon breaks.
Flight on Air Rarotonga to Aitutaki
The only way to get to Aitutaki is a flight via Rarotonga. Thankfully, Air Rarotonga has a dozen or so flights a day to Aitutaki. This 45 minute flight is a beautiful one at that. Make sure to sit on the left side of the plane on the Raro to Aitutaki leg as you’ll see the Lagoon from high above.
It’s something spectacular.
Make sure to book flights in advance especially during the high season when they can book out. Flights are generally between $200-250 NZD one way.
Day 4-9: Aitutaki Island
Aitutaki is the stuff of dreams.
It first came on to my radar when I started kitesurfing in Dahkla and wanted inspiration for my next kitesurfing spot. I saw a video on Aitutaki with its incredible blue lagoon that made my jaws drop. I had never even heard of the Cook Islands before this but I knew that one day I had to visit. It looked like an absolute dream for kitesurfers and beach lovers alike.
Fast forward some years, and I finally made it! While I couldn’t kitesurf since there was a tropical cyclone for half of my stay, I was still able to witness the world famous lagoon and its absolutely breathtaking colors.
The water transitions from white to light blue, to turquoise, and to the ocean blues. The lagoon is famous because of its shallow ankle high waters that extend for hundreds of meters out into the open ocean. It’s like a stadium sized sandbank in the middle of the ocean.
I spent 5 nights in Aitutaki and the days flew by. Every day was a beach day on the best beaches I have ever seen.
Where to stay in Aitutaki?
Aitutaki is a small island but there is a clear winner in the best areas to stay on the island.
Firstly, you can’t really go wrong with any part of the island since the entire island is surrounded by one of the most beautiful beaches in the world bar none.
However, the area around Ootu beach is without a doubt the most beautiful part of the island. This beach is located in the lagoon and is home to the famous sandbanks and shallow beach that extends hundreds of meters out into the ocean. This is why you come to Aitutaki after all.
Absolutely stay in the lagoon if you can. In addition, the Blue Lagoon restaurant and Cafe Koru are both in the lagoon which provide some of the best meals we had on the island.
We ended up staying on the west side of the island near to the airport. The beach on the west coast is also stunning and would rival any beach you can find in the world. We stayed at Aitutaki Seaside which are beachfront bungalows with breathtaking views over the ocean. It was also more affordable than many of the other options on the island.
However, the lagoon is what makes Aitutaki special and if I could do it over again, I would pay up and stay in the lagoon. We spent most of our days in the Lagoon anyhow.
Budget accommodations – $300 NZD and below
Mid level accommodation – $300 – 600 NZD
Luxury Accommodation – $600 NZD+
Where to eat in Aitutaki
For a small island in the South Pacific, I was very impressed with the food options Aitutaki had. Food was not only delicious, but there was more variety than I thought. I really do love the South Pacific cuisine as well which is all about fresh fish, coconut, rukao (local spinach), and cassava. Throw in some fresh chilies grown on the island and I’m set.
Blue Lagoon Restaurant
Blue Lagoon restaurant is located right in the famous lagoon on Ootu beach. The views from this restaurant might be some of the best you’ll find anywhere in the world. The searing blue and white water in front just makes you want to take photo after photo.
The food at Blue Lagoon was also some of our favorite. The chefs really know what they’re doing and they make delicious seafood and meat dishes. We ate here many times during our stay just because the views couldn’t be beat.
Avatea Cafe
Avatea Cafe is an institution on Aitutaki. It’s located in the middle of the island and has been beautiful decorated with reclaimed wood and fairy lights. It’s a wonderful place for all meals and our go to for morning coffees (although it was only open from 10am).
All the food at this restaurant are top tier from their curries to their burgers. In fact, their Island Mac burger is famous around the Cook Islands and I could see why. It reminded me of Fergburgers in Queenstown, New Zealand which ranked #1 for all burgers in the world.
Tava’e Restaurant
Tava’e is a must visit restaurant in Aitutaki. It’s a part of the Tava’e resort but the restaurant welcomes anyone. The restaurant faces the beach and the beachfront terrace is definitely the spot for sunset drinks.
The food is also amazing. I hate their grilled tuna over rukau and cassava which was a massive portion yet delicious.
Cafe Koru
Cafe Koru was our go to cafe in the morning that served a decent coffee and the best fish sandwiches on the island. It’s located right near the lagoon which and is open from 7:30am which is one of the earliest restaurants in the island.
Piraki Lookout Viewpoint
Piraki viewpoint is located in the center of the island at its highest point. The view here is nothing short of a miracle as you can see the entire lagoon and even other islands in the archipelago. The colors are really just unreal and pictures do not do it justice. How can something be so beautiful?
The Piraki Lookout can be accessed by car or you can hike from the town (30 minutes or so).
Aitutaki Lagoon Tour
Aitutaki is world famous for its lagoon and no trip is complete without a proper lagoon tour. I would have done this every day if it was possible! Here is just how beautiful it can be from this reel I created:
Where to book a Aitutaki Lagoon Tour?
The Lagoon tour is the most popular thing to do in Aitutaki. There are operators that do this tour every day in some form. People will even fly from Rarotonga to Aitutaki for the day and do the lagoon cruise (which is very popular and very possible).
You can go with a larger tour operator like Bishop’s cruises or the Vaka Cruise where you are paired with others. The price for the Bishop’s cruise is roughly $150 NZD per person. The Vaka tour is a much higher $250+ NZD.
I opted to go with a private tour where it was just the three of us sailing around the lagoon. The private lagoon tour is the way to go as you are on a smaller boat that can travel faster and enter more shallow waters where the most beautiful places are. Plus having your own boat let’s you take amazing photos like this one.
I ended up going with Saint Tours headed by a guy named Ned. He is Aitutaki born and bred with endless knowledge about the island. I can’t stop raving about his trip because we got to see all the highlights of the lagoon including:
- One Foot Island
- Moturakau
- Tekapua
- Honeymoon Island
I will not say exactly how much I paid him so to not set a precedent but it was less than the other operators.
Water taxis in Aitutaki
During the busy season, you can find companies that will run shuttle services between Aitutaki and the popular islands in the lagoon like Honeymoon island, One foot island, and others. You can find prices from various tour operators that will take you to somewhere like Honeymoon Island and leave you there for the day.
The prices generally range between $70-80 NZD per person for a round trip transfer. Not a bad way to spend the day.
When is the best time to visit the Cook Islands?
The Cook Islands are a year round tourist destination but like anywhere tropical, there are periods where there are sunnier days than others. Cook Islands is somewhere you’ll especially want to have sunny weather so you can really see the incredible colors of the beaches pop.
The dry season in the Cook Islands runs from April to October. During this period, you’ll have the highest chance of sun with warm temperatures and lower humidity. This period also brings in more tourists as it is the high season so you can expect more expensive accommodations as well.
The rainy season runs from November to March and is characterized by warmer temperatures and higher humidity. Rain showers are more frequent albeit not all the time. The tropical cyclone season is generally between January and March.
I visited in January and was caught in a tropical cyclone that lasted almost 1 week! I only have 3 days of nice weather out of 9. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose but at least we had a few good days to enjoy it!
I did visit Fiji in the dry season (August) and half the time I saw not so sunny conditions so you just never know especially in these days with climate change.
Mobile Data in Cook Islands
Mobile Data in Cook Islands is extremely expensive. I already thought that mobile data in New Zealand was crazy expensive until I came to Cook Islands.
There is only one mobile provider on the whole island, Vodafone, and they run a proper monopoly on the service. As of 2025, the data packages are criminally expensive at $49 NZD for 10gb and $69 NZD for 20gb. These packages are only 2 weeks as well and you’ll need to top up more if you stay longer.
In the age of AI and 5G, this is a pitiful amount of data that won’t get you far for a lot of money.
Nevertheless, there are no other options. You cannot just purchase a sim card and load the data you want. This is only reserved for locals who have local IDs. The data packages for tourists are limited to just these two. You can buy sim cards at the airport or any Vodafone store on the island.
FAQs for traveling to the Cook Islands
Are beaches in Cook Islands public?
Yes. By law, all the beaches in the Cook Islands are public. No resorts can claim a beach to themselves and have it closed down. While in Rarotonga, I found that there were many resorts along the beach where it felt like the beach belonged to them since they developed it so much but it is not true. Anyone is welcome to open their beach blanket and settle in.
In fact, a lot of the beaches in front of the fancy resorts will be the most pristine because they were regularly cleaned meaning less debris and rocks.
How expensive is traveling around Cook Islands
Like most of the rest of the South Pacific, traveling in the Cook Islands is not cheap. I would compare the costs to that of traveling in Fiji where I went 1y prior. Almost everything is imported which surely drives up the costs.
Because of the strong US Dollar, I actually found food and alcohol to be quite affordable in the Cook Islands and cheaper than I had envisioned. I could get a delicious fish curry for about $20-25 NZD at the night market in Rarotonga. Even at restaurants like Charlie’s on Rarotonga, their famous fish sandwich which was the size of my head was only $20 NZD. The portions are huge since they need to feed the local Polynesians who are just large human beings after all.
Scooter rentals are roughly $15-20 NZD a day which is a very affordable way to get around and see the islands. This is much cheaper than scooter rentals in Greece or Italy for example.
Accommodations are quite expensive however. In Rarotonga, it was hard to find decent accommodation for under $300 NZD a night. Even at $300 NZD, the accommodations were mediocre at best. You should budget a solid $500 NZD a night for good quality accommodation with some view.
You do not come to the South Pacific for a cheap holiday. Prepare to spend some money one way or another.
Aitutaki was similar in price points as Rarotonga.
What currency is used in the Cook Islands?
The Cook Islands uses the New Zealand Dollar for everything. Credit cards are also accepted almost everywhere in Rarotonga and Aitutaki. In fact, I only used cash at the night market in Rarotonga and this was only at the vendor selling seafood curry as the popular grilled meats vendor accepted card. In Aitutaki, I used cash to pay for my lagoon tour but that was only because of the guy I found gave me a good deal.
Is Cook Islands a part of New Zealand?
At first glance, I thought Cook Islands was part of New Zealand since it was not recognized as an official UN country so not somewhere new I could check off the list! However, the Cook Islands is not part of New Zealand. It is a self governing territory in “free association” with New Zealand.
Whatever that means.
The short of is that Cook Islanders have New Zealand passports and enjoy all the rights of a New Zealander. This means they can work and live freely in New Zealand and Australia with no questions asked. However, someone from Australia or New Zealand cannot live and work in the Cook Islands.
While the Cook Islands uses the New Zealand dollar as its currency, they do not have much affinity towards being actual Kiwis. Cook Islanders are ethnically the same as the Maori in New Zealand as centuries ago, some Maori left the Cook Islands to settle in modern day New Zealand (or Aotearoa). The language remains quite similar but there’s definitely a distinction between Cook Islanders and the New Zealand Maori.
For me, Cook Islands to New Zealand is similar to what Greenland is to Denmark or what Puerto Rico is to the USA.
Brilliant guide, thank you for putting this all together! We’re looking forward to a trip at Christmas.