Visiting Kiev: Europe’s Most Underrated Capital

Johnny

Kiev, Ukraine was always a place that I wanted to visit. Having traveled much of Europe already, I always had a strong curiosity of Eastern Europe. When I mean Eastern, I mean really East ala not a part of the European Union East. Ukraine just seemed like a fascinating place in a constant tug of war between Soviet Russia and Western Europe. Safe to say, my long weekend trip to Kiev and Chernobyl will not be my last.

St Andrews Cathedral in Kiev

St Andrews Cathedral in Kiev

I absolutely loved my time in this wonderful capital. There is so much history in this city it boggles the mind. There is a beautiful contrast between Medieval style buildings and the best of Soviet style architecture. The city is full of energy and you can feel the enthusiasm of the youth being expressed in the vibrant restaurant, cafe, and cocktail scenes. Best of all, the prices here are some of the cheapest you’ll find in Europe so you’ll have a good time in a beautiful city without breaking the bank. I didn’t have nearly enough time to visit all the places I wanted to but living in Frankfurt, it is an easy and cheap two hour flight so I will be back without a doubt.

 

Is it Kiev or Kyiv?

For most of the world, we learn about Ukrainian’s capital as Kiev. This is in fact the Russian translation of the word which is not used in any part of the capital. The correct spelling of Kiev as a translation from Ukrainian is Kyiv. You’ll see that everyone in Ukraine uses this spelling and it is the correct one. For the purpose of this post, I use both but make no mistake it is Kyiv!

 

How to get around Kiev


Getting around the city is very easy with the subways. At 8 Hryvnias a ticket, this will be your cheapest option by far. For those that can spend a tiny bit more money and want to get around faster, just use one of the many ride hailing apps the city has to offer.

Uber is the most popular app in Kiev, followed by Bolt which was hugely popular when I was traveling around the Baltic countries. I pretty much only used Uber to get around. My fares for a short to medium distance ride would range from 50 and 80 Hryvnias ($2 to $3). From the Airport, I paid abut 300 Hyrvnias ($12) and this was almost 40 minutes of driving. Safe to say that if you take ride hailing everywhere you go, you will not be breaking the bank!

 

Kiev is an architectural wonderland


But when walking the streets of Kiev, it feels like nowhere else in Europe—its architecture is equally as diverse in style as it is compelling and playfully designed. One step, art nouveau, next step, Ukrainian Baroque, turn your gaze, Soviet Modernism. This list could continue—there are over 30 unique architectural styles in Kiev’s metro area alone.

favorite building in Kiev renaissance hotel

Probably one of my favorite buildings in Kiev

I was expecting largely to see Soviet style buildings but aside from tearing down St Michael’s monastery a few times, they didn’t really destroy much else leaving all of the beautiful medieval buildings in tact.

 

Kiev Restaurant and Cocktail Scene


In the not so distant past, hungry tourists were limited to a handful of hotel restaurants with appalling service and tasteless food. Thanks to innovative entrepreneurs from Ukraine and the rest of the world, visitors can now choose from a vast range of options of local and international cuisine that rivals many Western European cities. I’ll admit I had little to no expectations of the dining scene in Kiev but I was very pleasantly surprised by all the offerings. During my short time in the city, I mostly stuck with Ukrainian food, both traditional and modern takes on it, and absolutely loved it.

The prices at some new, trendy restaurants in the centre are rising accordingly, but an evening dining out at most places will still cost less than you would expect to pay for the same level of service and quality at home. Equally appetising moderately priced and budget options are widely available in all parts of the city. As I visited in the summer, many of the cafes and restaurants had outdoor seating perfect for people watching.

 

Kanapa

Kapana is one of the highest rated restaurants in Ukraine. It’s a modern (but not overly modern) take on Ukrainian cuisine. They offer tasting menus as well as a la carte dining. I kept it simple here by getting the Variniki (dumplings) which I could eat every day, as well as the Chicken Kiev. I also tried their locally brewed green beer which is infused with herbs to get it a green color. Image result for kanapa kiev food

The best part of this experience was definitely the price. The tasting menu is only €22 which is 4 courses. I opted just for the variniki and Chicken Kiev which was about €15.

Image result for kanapa kiev

 

Pervak

Pervak is another classic Ukrainian restaurant serving all the local delicacies. The exterior and interior are built in the traditional sense. The restaurant itself is huge with different rooms decorated in different themes and the waitresses all wear the traditional dresses. The food is quite good here, and it’s a spot for locals and tourists alike. The prices are probably higher than most places but even so, it is quite cheap by Western standards.

Image result for pervak kiev

 

Chicken Kyiv

At the recommendation of our walking tour guide, the best place to sample Chicken Kyiv is actually at a restaurant called Chicken Kyiv. I guess they do not want any confusion for diners at this restaurant! This was one of my first meals in Kyiv and I had to order all the delicacies. This means Borscht, variniki, and of course the Chicken Kyiv.

The variniki are absolutely delicious. They are similar to the pierogies in Poland but also slightly different. They are smaller and the dough is thinner. Regardless, I was in dumpling heaven and ended up ordering another plate of it. 

The Chicken Kyiv is a bit like chicken cordon blue but the inside stuffing is cheese and parsley as opposed to cheese and ham. I’m not sure if it is actually a Ukrainian dish but my waiter was really firm on it, probably because I’m a tourist. Regardless, this chicken was deliciously tender, juicy and flavorful. For about €4 and €3 for the variniki, this place is a great deal. This is one of the most upscale places in the city from the looks of it so I can imagine you can find these dishes for even cheaper.

 

Cafe culture

In recent years, Kyiv has seen lots of trendy new cafes opening on its busy sidewalks and in hidden courtyards. There are now enough top-notch places around the city to cater for the needs of coffee-craving locals and visitors alike, with cosy ambience, high-quality products and excellent choice of brews and snacks. Whether you’re in the mood for for hip indie spots or romantic retro hangouts, Kyiv has it covered.

 

Brunch Scene

Over the years, Kyiv has scene a huge boon in breakfast and brunch themed restaurants. If you want to take a break from of Varynyky and Borscht (although why would you??), make sure to sample some of the fantastic brunch themed options the city has to offer.

My favorites were Favorite Uncle, Milk Bar, Yolk, and The Life of Wonderful people.

Image result for milk bar kiev

Brunch at Milk bar in Kiev

Brunch at Milk bar in Kiev

 

Cocktail bar Scene

Like many up and coming cities around the world, the cocktail bar scene has seen a huge surge in popularity. Kiev is simply cocktail heaven. There are so many top notch cocktail bars all around the city. Whether you want a modern swanky vibe, or an underground speakeasy, all your wishes will be met.

The best part? The cocktails which by no means are affordable to the locals, are very affordable by international standards. I went to Nikka Bar in the city center for a few cocktails one night. Decked out in Japanese decor, the ambiance and decor of this place screamed cocktail bar. They even had a cozy outdoor area with a Japanese Torii. I had some old fashioneds which were absolutely fantastic. At €5 each, it is a complete steal. Image result for n::b kiev

 

 

Visiting the Zoloti Vorota Subway Station


The subway station in Kiev is an absolute must visit for all travelers. Even if you’re not a fan of mass transportation or if your home town’s system gives you nightmares, you need to come here. Kiev’s subway station is the deepest in the world extending some 105m into the ground. They were constructed so deep during the Cold War to withstand any sort of bombs hitting.

The subway station itself is absolutely beautiful. The details, murals, architectural design is something else. Soviet construction usually elicits a negative thought with images of dark square buildings with zero character. Whatever effort the Soviets did not put into constructing their residential apartment buildings, they put it all into their subway stations. Image result for kiev subway station

There are of course numerous subway stations to visit but the most iconic is definitely the Zoloti Vorota station (Golden Gate). In order to visit the track, you’ll need to buy a subway ticket for 8 Hryvnias (about 30 cents). I didn’t actually ride the trains (although they did look nice) but merely just to walk around the station and admire the beautiful detailing.Related image

The subway station is also immaculate and there was no garbage anywhere. Being from New York City, without a doubt we have a 3rd world subway system compared to Kiev. People were telling me Moscow is even better so can’t wait to visit Russia!

 

 

All the beautiful cathedrals


Kiev has some of the most spectacular Orthodox churches I’ve seen. As someone that has traveled much of Europe and seen countless churches and cathedrals, it can get repetitive. However, I never tire of seeing Orthodox churches. The churches in Kiev have colorful exteriors and stunning domes that perfectly blend Western style churches with Islamic Mosques. The interiors are all outfitted with incredible murals that soak up every corner of the church.

 

Saint Sofia Cathedral

Saint Sofia Cathedral is undeniably the most well-known. It was built in the centre of Kiev in the 11th Century by the son of Volodymyr Yaroslav the Wise. Nowadays, the cathedral represents the beating heart of “Sofia of Kyiv”, one of the largest museum centres in Ukraine. For those that visited Istanbul, you’ll be familiar with the stunning Aya Sofya that was once a church but converted to a Mosque during the Ottoman Empire. The Saint Sofia church was modeled after its Byzantine counterpart and meant to rival it as well.

St Sofia Cathedral kiev Ukraine

St Sofia Cathedral

To visit the cathedral, I paid 100 UAH to enter the premise and go inside the cathedral. I paid another 60 UAH to visit the belltower which affords fantastic views of the city.

St Sofia Cathedral kiev Ukraine

St Sofia Cathedral kiev Ukraine

The views of the St Sofia church from the Belltower were stunning especially as the sun was setting.St Sofia Cathedral kiev Ukraine

St Sofia Cathedral kiev Ukraine

View of Kiev from the belltower

 

St Volodymyr Cathedral

Although not one of Kyiv’s most important churches, St Volodymyr’s Cathedral arguably has the prettiest interior. Built in the late 19th century to mark 900 years of Orthodox Christianity in the city, its yellow exterior and seven blue domes conform to standard Byzantine style. However, inside it breaks new ground with art nouveau influences.

St Volodymyr Cathedral

St Volodymyr Cathedral

Huge murals, flecked with golden accents, include a painting of Volodymyr the Great’s baptism into Orthodox Christianity in Chersonesus (now Khersones) and of Kyiv’s citizens being herded into the Dnipro River for a mass baptism soon afterwards.St Volodymyr Cathedral kiev
 
 

St Michael’s Monestery

St. Michael’s Cathedral is located opposite St. Sophia’s Cathedral. The original, built by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, was destroyed by the Soviet regime in the 1930s for having “no historical value” like many other beautiful buildings during communist times. The reconstructed cathedral was completed in May 2000. Its sky blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to a cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient and newly reconstructed. A sobering reminder of Stalin’s inhumane policies stands to the right as you exit the church grounds.

St Michael's monastery

St Michael’s monastery

This is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation) which was a famine orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians perished from 1932-33. IWe learned about this on our walking tour and it was the silent genocide that very few people know about.

 

St. Andrews Church

Famous Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli was the mastermind behind this attractive Baroque church that greets the throngs at the top of Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Built in 1754, it’s one of the rare buildings in Kyiv that has managed to avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The elegant silhouette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas are easily visible from Podil and beyond.St Andrews Church of Kiev

St Andrews Church of Kiev

St Andrews Church of Kiev

Amazing building!

 
 

Shooting Range in Kiev


Another unusual activity I have tried in Kiev was shooting. I got in touch with guys from Kiev Shooting Club and we agreed on one of the packages from their long offer. I have chosen the Kalashnikov & Friends which is said to be the bestseller.

I was picked from my place by car with my guide for the day Olga. After more than a half hour ride we reached the outdoor shooting range and after another few minutes of formalities (you need to have your passport and be above 18 years, which I luckily am) we moved to the shooting stands.

My shooting instructor spoke primary Ukrainian, but some of the commands from him were in English, so I obviously wasn’t his first foreign customer.

I started with a Glock 17 pistol, then there was a shotgun Fabarm and I finally reached the highlight – AK 47 Kalashnikov. The weapon had a slightly different shape than what you may expect from the Kalashnikov rifle. I was explained that the traditional silhouette is typical for older models of the Kalashnikov and the modern ones have a bit different design. The Kalashnikov has already a strong recoil, so you must hold the weapon properly or otherwise you will end up with a bruise on your shoulder. 

The last weapon on the list was the Dragunov. I did not know what to expect from this gun, but I was positively surprised how easy it is to hit a target at 100 meters with a military sniper rifle even for a beginner.

Altogether, I liked my Kiev shooting experience. I did not feel this to be aggressive and it was very safe. The downpoint may be how quick everything goes, the actual bang-bang takes maximum 2 minutes. 

On the way back to the city Olga told me about other programs like riding a tank or visiting a nuclear missiles base, so even I had to give a miss to these options but these may be ideas to consider for my next trip to Kiev.

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Showing 2 comments
  • Avatar
    Volodymyr Kunko-Bohoslavetz
    Reply

    Please, it’s Kyiv!

    Follow Associated Press, U.S. Department of State and Library of Congress guidelines …

    Have a wonderful day!

    Ps. When you fly into Ivan Mazepa Int’l Airport – the big sign reads
    “Welcome to Kyiv!”

    • Johnny
      Johnny
      Reply

      Thanks! yes you are of course right! but unfortunately most people know it as Kiev not from Europe so makes it easier to find the article on Google 🙂

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